About Hot Tub Chemicals
There is no such thing as a chemical-free hot tub! But, you can choose sanitising options that minimise your chemical use and that will be kind to both your skin and the environment.
Why do I need chemicals?
You can leave the water in a hard sided hot tub for up to 12 weeks and in an inflatable hot tub for 3 - 4 weeks before you need to change it, so obviously you will need to treat the water to keep it clean and safe to use. Enzymes alone, seaweed or any of the many other wacky options that come and go cannot kill resilient and harmful bacteria, such as legionella, that will develop in the water if it is not treated properly.
What do I need to do?
It's easy! There are only three things that you will need to do.
- 1. Sanitize
- First and most importantly you need to sanitize the water to stop potentially dangerous bacteria growing. Correct santitizing will also stop the growth of algae. There are many different sanitizers to choose from, ranging from chlorine through to silver. The two options that are kindest on the skin and the environment are the ecoONE system and Aquagarde. Compare the hot tub chemical options available here.....
- 2. Filter
- Secondly you need to ensure that all debris and significantly sized particles are removed from the water. This function is performed by the hot tub filter that must be changed and cleaned regularly to ensure that it performs properly. Any particles of organic matter that are not filtered out of the water will decay and quickly cause a degredation in water quality. You can read more about cleaning hot tub filters here.....
- 3. Shock
- Finally, you will need to remove any dissolved contaminants from your water (perspiration, grease, body lotions, make-up, hair care products etc etc) by using a hot tub shock product. If you don't do this the water will become dull, discoloured and foamy. By far the best shock product available, for use with any sanitizing regime, is surespa spa shock express.
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How to Protect your Hot Tub Cover Investment
Your hot tub cover can look way past its best very quickly if it is not maintained and cleaned regularly!
Don't let this happen to your investment!
Chemical in the water vapour that comes into contact with the cover eventually causes the plastic wrapping around the inserts to become brittle and crack. Once that happens the foam inserts will quickly absorb moisture, become heavy and stop insulating properly. Poor water chemistry can also cause bleaching, puffiness within the vinyl and disintegration of the stitching.
The Nasties Lurking in Your Hot Tub!
Biofilm is a colony of bacteria and other micro-organisms that stick themselves to a surface. Biofilm loves virtually any surface, but especially dark, warm, wet surfaces - that's the seats, walls, skimmer baskets, filter cartridges, cover, pump, jets, handles, lights, air holes, heater and especially the pipework in your hot tub.
These micro-organisms multiply rapidly and will cover themselves in a protective layer of slime that is very resistant to disinfectants like chlorine or bromine. Biofilm can harbour harmful bacteria like Legionella, Pseudomonas Aeruginosas, Mycobacterium Fortuitum and E-Coli.
SHOULD YOU USE ENZYMES IN YOUR HOT TUB?
The biggest enemies of hot tub water quality come from our bodies. Oils and grease from our bodies get introduced into the water when we enjoy a nice soak and, over time, they accumulate in the water, in the filters and even coat the hot tub shell.
In the past, the only way to remove these contaminants was by draining and cleaning the hot tub and then refilling it, using a hearty dose of chlorine or bromine to sanitise the water. All very time-consuming, hard-work and not in the least bit environmentally friendly.
Now, more and more consumers are looking to reduce their exposure to chlorine or bromine and, at the same time, make looking after their hot tub easier and more environmentally friendly.
8 TIPS TO LOWER YOUR HOT TUB RUNNING COSTS
Tip 1 : Check your cover
- Is your hot tub cover too heavy? If so, it is probably water logged and will no longer be insulating your tub properly.
- Look at your cover on a frosty morning. Is there a line of no frost spreading along the hinge? If so, when it's time to purchase a new cover, invest a little more in one with a continuous heat seal along the hinge to stop this heat loss happening.
- If the frost is melting off your hot tub cover before it is melting from the surrounding areas in the garden then it needs more insulation!
Top tips for winter hot tub use
We all feel aches and sprains more when the weather is cold, plus we might even be more likely to pull a muscle or strain a joint. A good long soak in your hot tub will ease away stiffness and pain, but how do we stop the electricity bills becoming scary? Running costs of today's hot tubs are generally reduced as a result of improved thermal insulation and heat retention features, but that obviously depends on which tub you have and there are still extra things that you can do to save more money and be kind to the planet.
Hot Tub Cover Problems Caused by Chemical Imbalance
The detrimental effect that chemicals can have on a hot tub cover cannot be overstated. Over-chlorination, excessive ozone contact, or imbalanced water chemistry are all factors that will contribute to swift disintegration of the plastic wrapping around the foam inserts inside your cover. Over time the chemicals in the water vapour make the plastic brittle and it simply disintegrates. Once that has happened it's the end of the road of the poor old cover. The foam becomes water-logged and extremely heavy and the cover no-longer provides adequate insulation so up go your electricity bills. Imbalanced water chemistry will also cause bleaching, puffiness within the vinyl and disintegration of the stitching.
FOAMING WATER? DON'T REACH FOR THE FOAMAWAY!
If we never sell another bottle of hot tub anti-foam it will be a great achievement!
Foaming water is almost always caused by dissolved stuff in your water and to cure the foaming you need to remove the cause! Major culprits are makeup, soap and fabric conditioner residues from your swimwear, hair gel, body lotion and general muck off your body. Obviously you shouldn't introduce these things into the water in the first place, but inevitably you will and so they need to be removed. How?